Leif Whittaker and First Ascent guide Dave Hahn describe the severe weather that nearly jeopardized their summit attempt and the window of opportunity that afforded their success. See Leif’s summit and some amazing scenery from the top of the world in this video recap.
By Leif Whittaker:
Clouds collide, explode into 50 mph winds that throw frozen bullets at the tent. Inside, the stove roar drowns out the mayhem, but it doesn’t warm our spirits. This is our second night of delay at 26,000 feet and the entire expedition hinges on the next few hours. If the unexpected storm finally calms, we will charge for the summit like it’s our last chance, because it will be. If the wind doesn’t abate, if the sky doesn’t clear, we’ll descend in failure, unsatisfied, discouraged by the fact that we didn’t receive even one clear shot at the summit. But I still have hope that our clear shot will come. We need to get lucky. We need to get lucky right now. Read More…
Leif Whittaker with First Ascent guides Seth Waterfall and Dave Hahn on the Summit of Mt. Everest
The 2010 Everest climbing season has been a record-setting success for Eddie Bauer. In one 3-day window, three different climbing teams outfitted in Eddie Bauer First Ascent gear reached the Everest summit.
On May 22, Apa Sherpa, climbing leader for the Eco Everest Expedition 2010, broke his own world record by reaching the highest point on Earth for the 20th time.
On May 23, First Ascent guide Melissa Arnot, accompanied by Dave Morton, became the first American woman to summit Everest three times. This achievement was pre-confirmed by Liz Hawley, pending a further database search.
On May 24, Leif Whittaker retraced American and family history when he topped out 47 years after his father, Jim, became the first American to do so, back on May 1, 1963. Also with Leif was First Ascent guide and expedition leader Dave Hahn, who made his 12th summit—more than any non-Sherpa in history. Other members of the summit team were First Ascent guide Seth Waterfall, photographer Michael Brown, RMI guide Casey Grom and climber Scott Jones.
Congratulations to all the teams!
RMI has reported that First Ascent guide Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker have arrived safely back at Base Camp and reunited with the team. The group is packing up camp and will begin their trek to Lukla shortly.
RMI has just reported that First Ascent guide Seth Waterfall, Michael Brown, Casey Grom and Scott Jones have returned to Base Camp after a night at Camp II. First Ascent guide Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker spent the night at Camp IV after summiting, are currently at Camp II, and will arrive at Base Camp tomorrow.
RMI has just reported that Leif Whittaker has stepped onto the summit of Mt. Everest. It was the culmination of a lifelong dream, and the fulfillment of a family legacy. Forty-seven years ago, on May 1, 1963, Leif’s father, Jim, became the first American to reach the top of the world’s highest mountain.
Leif departed Seattle on March 24 to begin a journey retracing his father’s historic footsteps and establishing his own in the storied Khumbu Valley of the high Himalaya. Accompanied by First Ascent guides Dave Hahn and Seth Waterfall, photographer Michael Brown and a team of Sherpa, Whittaker radioed from the summit. Dave accomplished his own significant milestone today, becoming the first non-Sherpa in history to summit Everest 12 times.
Congratulations to the entire First Ascent team! Stay tuned for reflections from Leif on what it feels like to climb the mountain that he has grown up hearing about and dreaming about and now has met face to face.
RMI has just reported that Leif Whittaker, Dave Hahn and team are presently at the Balcony where they are changing oxygen bottles under calm winds and clear skies. We’ll keep you updated as we receive more information throughout the evening.
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Hi, it’s Michael Brown at the South Col of Mt. Everest. I’m here with First Ascent Guide Seth Waterfall. Next tent over has Leif Whittaker and Expedition Leader, Dave Hahn. And the next tent is guide Casey Grom and climber Scott Jones. It’s a little after 9:30, and about 11 o’clock we’re going to have our crampons on and we’re going to start walking uphill. We got a forecast yesterday that indicated there’d be a lot of wind; Read More…
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Transcription:
Dave Hahn, Expedition Leader
Hello, this is Dave and here we are at the South Col. The mountain showed this is not going to be easy for us. We were hoping we’d just waltz up in a perfectly forecasted weather window. Instead, the Himalaya showed a mind of its own. Sent a little unexpected snowstorm in on us. Read More…
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Hi, this is Michael Brown calling from the South Col of Mount Everest. It’s a very blustery snowy night and we’ve made a decision to wait another day so we’ll be here 24 hours more. Been monitoring the weather and it looks like we might have a little bit more wind tomorrow; but, possibly less snow because at the moment it’s snowing and there’s clouds all the way over the summit. Chances are we would be climbing all the way up in the snow and back down again in the snow so not really a very pleasant day for climbing. Give it 24 hours and hopefully we have a better result tomorrow. Thanks for standing by and we’ll stay in touch, we’ll keep calling and letting you know what’s happening. Take care.
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