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I have become very interested in the Ecuadorian history of the Inca Highway recently. As we board a short flight south to Cuenca, I know that I will learn so much about it in the next few days. Our local guide meets us, here to help us understand more about the local culture as well as the historical Inca culture. We drive for a few hours and suddenly a bluff appears with stone structures on it. This is our first Inca ruin.
As we wander through the maze of rockwork, I can imagine a village of people here. The Inca people were remarkably advanced in their infrastructure, despite the fact that they had a rather short reign here (about 70 years). There is clearly a system to divide workers from royals and keep families close.
We see the start of the Inca road that we will eventually follow. It looks like a cobbled sidewalk…I had somehow thought it would be bigger, but our guide reminds me that it is 1,200 miles long…I guess that is sufficiently big!
We head out into the hills and suddenly come upon a tall structure with the remnants of the road next to it. These are the tambos, or way stations, that made the Incas’ communication systems possible. I sit inside, again imagining that a runner is coming to bring me a verbal message that I will carry anywhere from 12 to 50 miles before passing it on to the next runner. Their system is amazing.
I am so happy to have experienced this part of Ecuador, this deep and rich history that has helped to define the current culture. I feel like I have a more complete understanding of this fantastic country and all that happens here. Now I just have to start planning my next trip…
The alarm beeping alerted me that it was now midnight – time to get up and start the hot water. I wake up Jeff (though he assures me he never really slept). As I peek outside, I can see the city of Quito far below us as well as the infinite universe above us, a good sign. We try to eat some food at this early hour and head out around 2:00 a.m. An hour of switchbacks through dirt leads us to the toe of the glacier. This is my fifth time here and the climbing route has completely changed Read More…
A few hours of driving land us directly at the base of Cotopaxi, in a beautiful and traditional hacienda. Today we will spend the morning packing and hydrating (and of course adjusting to the new altitude). There are two incredibly friendly dogs running around and a funny little horse, which apparently was recently adopted by the hacienda owner. We decide to explore some of the hillsides surrounding the mountain on horseback. I love horses, but quite honestly, I am not sure they feel the same way about me Read More…
The sun is shining today, which is a great way to start out the climbing portion of our trip! Unfortunately, it has been extremely wet for the past few weeks and as we approach (via jeep) our first hiking location, the wet roads show us that they have other ideas. We drive straight through a stream that covers the tires completely, only to come around the corner and see that the road is literally being washed away in front of our eyes. Jeff and I quickly jump out of the vehicle, grabbing the shovel that they gave us at the gate to the road. I sink about a foot straight into the mud, laughing at the useless shovel in my hand Read More…
Our first day in Quito starts with a fresh-fruit breakfast influenced by the coastal regions before we head out to see what Ecuador is really all about. The culture in Quito is an amazing mix of old and new. You literally can be walking in front of a skyscraper, only to turn the corner and find yourself on a dirt road with children playing and the indigenous people carrying loads of fruit on top of their heads Read More…
The sunshine is gone this morning as we head out to Floreana Island. After stepping into the chilly morning water, I feel compelled to stay there on the shore and wait for the penguins. Carlitos, our naturalist, tells me that we may see penguins but we must be patient. I have gotten a little too used to the idea of wildlife on demand, and I find myself wandering around the shore, chasing a beautiful yellow warbler. He is contrasted against the black lava rocks, he just cannot hide from me. As I chase him, I see the mouth to a lava cave with stairs entering the earth. Apparently this island was home to early pirates and whalers Read More…
The theme for today is birds. North Seymour Island in the Galapagos is really the place for birds, and now is the season to see them. As we disembark, I immediately see the bright red necks of the frigate birds, and only a few feet away from our landing spot I can see the trademark feet of the blue-footed boobie. The colorful male birds are fighting for the attention of the few female birds and they aren’t fazed by our presence at all Read More…
One of the first major expeditions Eddie outfitted was in 1953 and 54. The Inca Highway Expedition was a 2-year archaeological exploration of the “Royal Road” that stretched from Quito, Ecuador to Santiago, Chile. This spring, in honor of our 90th year of adventuring, First Ascent’s Melissa Arnot went back to Ecuador, to serve as our guide traveling from beach to rainforest to giant peak. Melissa was joined by climb client Jeff Dossett, photographer Jake Norton and cameraman Bob Poole.
Climbing trips are not just about climbing. That is why I travel rather than choosing to spend time only on the mountains close to my home. You can experience amazing culture and diversity while also staying focused on the goal of a summit Read More…
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