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Caroline’s mother, Martine, is a pioneering female mountaineer and the first female to summit some of the world’s most difficult mountains. In this story, Caroline shares her experience climbing Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix, France, with her mother and reflects on the tradition of mountaineering in her family.
As I was growing up, my family would travel the world to climb, and it is still with great pleasure that I go climbing with them. My mother, Martine, pushed the boundaries of climbing for women when she was younger. She climbed great classics such as the Gervasutti Pillar and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. She was the first female to ascend the Naranjo de Bulnes in Spain and climbed in Peru. She placed first in many ski and mountaineering competitions and is always excited to go on an adventure, but at 65 years young her knees are giving her some trouble. I try to pick climbs that don’t involve much approach or descent. Read More…
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This post was written by First Ascent Brand Team on August 26, 2010
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La Meije is nestled at the end of a very deep and narrow valley as you drive up the Col du Lautaret pass from Grenoble in France. The citizens of the nearby ski mecca , La Grave, named the peak “La Meije,” – “noon” in local slang – so that when the sun is lined up with the summit, they know what time it is.
At 3,983 meters, La Meije is the pride of the valley that I would regularly commute through to go ice climbing in the Southern Alps. Each time I drove through La Grave, I would catch a glimpse of the austere north face of La Meije. I finally reached its summit for the first time in 2002, a milestone in my climbing career. Read More…
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This post was written by First Ascent Brand Team on August 24, 2010
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When my two clients and I arrived at the Cabane d’Orny, a mountain refuge on the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc massif, the hut keeper, Patricia, welcomed us with open arms. This was a huge relief because for days I’d been sweating the details – our hut reservations, tram timetables, taxi shuttles and inhospitable French guides. This was day two of a seven-day climbing itinerary in and around Chamonix. It wasn’t my first time in Europe, but it was my first time guiding in Europe, and I was nervous! Read More…
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This post was written by First Ascent Brand Team on August 19, 2010
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Last month, First Ascent Eddie Bauer associates Kristen Elliott and Doreen Jarman and friend Harmony Weihs had the opportunity to climb Mt. Rainier with First Ascent mountain guide Melissa Arnot. Below is Melissa’s account of the journey the all-women team made to reach the summit.
By Melissa Arnot
A big reason why I guide is that I enjoy seeing people who are challenging themselves and growing. Last month I climbed to the summit of Mt. Rainier with three women who were particularly inspiring.
The women – Seattle locals and Eddie Bauer associates who worked with me on the First Ascent launch – originally made the decision to climb Mt. Rainier two years ago. They felt inspired to try to get to the top of the mountain where the idea of First Ascent was born. After six months of training, we met in Ashford on a very stormy June day in 2009. They were excited. I was not. Walking in the rain was not going to be a good way to start the climb, and after two hours of hiking through brutal winds and very cold rain, we retreated with a “rain check” to try again in a month. A month later, on a beautiful July day, we set out again and this time made our high camp without incident. Read More…
Posted Under: Guides
This post was written by First Ascent Brand Team on August 13, 2010
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I was joined by two other guides to guide six clients up Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe and in the Alps. We met at the Bellevue cable car in Les Houches, a few kilometers down the valley from the alpine climbing mecca, Chamonix, France, and rode a small mountain train to the start of the trailhead called “Nid d’Aigle.”
From the start, there were a number of steep switchbacks and a rocky spur to the Tete Rousse Hut at 3,167 meters. The Tete Rousse is a beautiful and comfortable location perched high above the Vallee de l’Arve, with the north face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and the strenuous Gouter Ridge looming above. Read More…
Posted Under: Guides
This post was written by First Ascent Brand Team on August 6, 2010
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Leif Whittaker with First Ascent guides Seth Waterfall and Dave Hahn on the Summit of Mt. Everest
The 2010 Everest climbing season has been a record-setting success for Eddie Bauer. In one 3-day window, three different climbing teams outfitted in Eddie Bauer First Ascent gear reached the Everest summit.
On May 22, Apa Sherpa, climbing leader for the Eco Everest Expedition 2010, broke his own world record by reaching the highest point on Earth for the 20th time.
On May 23, First Ascent guide Melissa Arnot, accompanied by Dave Morton, became the first American woman to summit Everest three times. This achievement was pre-confirmed by Liz Hawley, pending a further database search.
On May 24, Leif Whittaker retraced American and family history when he topped out 47 years after his father, Jim, became the first American to do so, back on May 1, 1963. Also with Leif was First Ascent guide and expedition leader Dave Hahn, who made his 12th summit—more than any non-Sherpa in history. Other members of the summit team were First Ascent guide Seth Waterfall, photographer Michael Brown, RMI guide Casey Grom and climber Scott Jones.
Becoming a full IFMGA-certified guide has been my lifelong dream. A few years back, I took a friend up the beautiful Forbes Arete on the Aiguille du Chardonnet in Chamonix. She had never climbed any mountain and I was in charge of the whole climb. I loved how taking someone up and down a mountain required so much problem solving: what time do we need to start, what are the hazards and how do I manage them, how much rope should be out on the glacier, what is the most efficient yet safe way to do this section, how do I care for my friend, etc. Read More…
RMI has reported that First Ascent guide Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker have arrived safely back at Base Camp and reunited with the team. The group is packing up camp and will begin their trek to Lukla shortly.
It was quite a year for First Ascent ski guides Reggie and Zach Crist, Lel Tone, Tom Wayes, Erik Leidecker and Kent McBride, as they set out to design the 2010 ski collection. They packed up the First Ascent Airstream back in December in Sun Valley, Idaho and made their way through California, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming and Washington before catching the ferry to the big mountains of Alaska. Using the Airstream as base camp, the guides designed, tested, redesigned, and retested gear until they finally ended the season with a fifth prototype that will be the basis for final product this fall. We hope you enjoyed the journey as much as we did, and we can’t wait for you to see the gear in time for the 2010 ski season.
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