In Search of Unsurfed Waves Above the Arctic Circle

[EDITOR’S NOTE: This is the first in a series of five posts by Yassine Ouhilal chronicling the month-long Arctic Surf Expedition that he and four other surfers began on April 5, 2009.]

April 4. After several months of planning and years of scouting polar regions, our journey is about to begin. It will take us all over the coastline of northern Norway and Russia, in search of unsurfed waves above the Arctic Circle in the frigid waters of the Arctic Ocean and Barents Sea.

Most of the world’s surfing hotspots have become overcrowded. Many world-class spots now have hundreds of people surfing them every day. The Arctic is a last frontier that offers a return to the soul of surfing, a sort of trip back in time where it’s still possible to be alone surfing perfect waves with just you and your friends.

This comes at a price. Weather conditions in the Arctic change constantly. It’s possible to experience all four seasons in an hour. Winds can be hurricane force, and giant tides make good surf spots appear and disappear quickly. The water is in the upper 30s in the spring, and the air can dip way below that. But the coastline of Norway is extremely long. Some say it’s impossible to measure because of the thousands of islands, fjords, nooks and crannies. That means an incredible potential for perfect beaches and surf conditions for those willing to go exploring. And the thrill of surfing a spot that’s never even been seen before justifies the effort, energy, patience and perseverance it takes to find that place in this cold, hostile and remote environment.

April 5. Our 5-man team meets in Oslo, Norway, and we experience the first miracle of our adventure: all our surfboards and equipment make it. Christian is especially happy, as some of his longboards are over 10 feet. The fact that none of our oversized and heavy gear got lost or delayed is a good sign.

We catch a series of connecting flights, ending with one to Leknes, a tiny town in the far north. As we prepare to land, everyone is glued to the windows. The islands below us are some of the oldest geological formations on Earth. Snow-capped peaks are surrounded by aquamarine water—perhaps what the Caribbean might have looked like during the last Ice Age, if you threw in the French Alps.

Our base camp will be the historic fishing village Kraemmervika. We’re staying in a restored fisherman’s cabin from the turn of the century. These cabins are called rorbus, and are built on stilts right above the water. Just outside the doors is a fleet of speedboats we can use to reach inaccessible beaches.

Exhausted from the half-dozen flights it took us to get here, we unpack our gear. It’s still light out. At such high latitudes, within a week or two, we will be able to surf past midnight. The potential to score surf around the clock is definitely exciting, as some swells often peak at night.

As I fade from exhaustion, I wonder what the next month will hold in store for us. It won’t be an easy journey, but I am looking forward to those special moments that make it all worthwhile. Just being here is good enough for now.

Have you ever wanted to do something that’s never been done? Be bold. Be First. Get sponsored. Coming this fall from Eddie Bauer.