Apr 25

Basecamp Grows as Team Hahn Test Upper Mountain

Everest Dispatch #33
April 25, 2009

Advanced Basecamp …. 21,200 ft.
N27’58.811′ E086’54.160′

By Dave Hahn

Advanced Basecamp sits along a rocky moraine overlaying dense glacial ice.
The rock comes from Everest’ immense and steep Southwest Face and a few million avalanches. Once at the base of the Face it is plowed into a neat ridge by the motion of the Khumbu Glacier. I suppose though, that the ridge is only neat in geological terms. Yesterday as we walked the 30 minutes from the tent at its lower end, to our tents near the moraine’s upper end, we were treated to views of old sneakers, pots, pans, shredded tents and crushed stoves mixed in with the rock and ice. Fifty seven years worth of Advanced Basecamps in the same slow moving place have made this spot one of the worst on the mountain in terms of ecological damage. A number of those decades of mountaineering were before any ethics existed governing which items should and shouldn’t be left in the hills.

Our camp was already up and running and deluxe by Camp I standards. There we were cooking in our tents – here we have Maila, the Camp II Chef, in a comfortable dome dining tent with chairs. We rested through much of yesterday afternoon when it was hot enough to fry eggs on the tents. When the sun ducked behind Nuptse, we each came out in our down suits to watch the light fade on Lhotse and Everest.

It would be normal, after a first night spent at this altitude to do some damage control. Somebody would, quite reasonably, have had a terrible night of headaches and insomnia and would be packing their gear at first light for a fast escape. Not so with our gang. In the cold 6 am shadows this morning, Seth, Kent and Erica emerged looking well rested and comfortable. Along with Ang Kaji, we ate a quick breakfast and then got out for a hike to the foot of the Lhotse Face. I wanted the team to wear their down suits – since that is what we’ll wear on the next rotation when we actually tackle the Lhotse Face. We could see several dozen climbers on the new ropes on the Face – and way up high – between Camp III and the Yellow Band at 25,000 feet – we could see dots representing today’s fixing team. One of those dots was our own Nga Tenji, pitching in to further the route. Nga Tenji made it all the way to the South Col, at 26,000 feet, staking out a site for our High Camp before heading back to ABC.

My small team climbed perhaps a 1,000 ft above ABC, to 22,000 ft and were treated to new views of Cho Oyu, the worlds 6th highest mountain, 20 miles distant. Nobody felt like doing cartwheels or jumping jacks at the new altitude – but such tricks weren’t required. We were perfecting our one and only most important trick: walking higher when walking lower is easier. And we did fine with it. We didn’t concern ourselves too much with the next big hurdle – we‘ll get on the Face next time, after a Basecamp rest.

For today the morning hike was enough. We spent the afternoon tinkering with the solar charging and radio systems at ABC, while drinking liter after liter of water -always trying to counteract the dehydrating effects of high dry air. Tomorrow it will be back to the comforts of Basecamp – provided we watch every single important and awkward step down through the Khumbu Icefall.

Dave Hahn

Comments

GB
April 25, 2009 at 11:20 am

It’s exciting following the climb through the dispatches and photos. Does the beauty of the mountains ever stop you in your tracks and make you want to look around in awe at your surroundings? How do you respond when climbing with a client or climbing partner? Safe climbing!
T-Dawg
April 25, 2009 at 11:51 am

Wow, really starting to get excited now to hear that the Sherpas are making the trail to High Camp. Quick question, do the Sherpas get aclimatized well before the expedition teams arrive? Also, after watching the video about waste collection, and yeah, this is a little gross, when at ABC or when you all reach HC, what happens when “nature calls?” Do the Sherpas bring up latrine tents or do you bust out the shovel? I’m sure some enquiring minds are wondering. Hope you and your team make it back to BC safely and look forward in reading your next dispatch and watching the next video and photo entry.
tea_nyc
April 25, 2009 at 6:38 pm

Thank you very much for great dispatches and videos! I’ve been following you daily as well as my Croatian girls, and am very glad to see both teams are doing great! Looking forward in following you all the way to the top! Please keep an eye on my girls too! Be safe!
logan
April 25, 2009 at 9:06 pm

Hi, Logan here, your old Muir base camp manager, just saying hello and keep up the good work! I’m a year away from my MD degree now, and hope to be a climbing team’s doctor some day. Stay hydrated, and keep an eye on each other!

Write A Comment