Everest Expedition Acclimatizes in Namche

Everest Dispatch #4
March 31, 2009
Namche…… 11,296 ft.
N 27° 48.300’  E 086° 42.667’
by Melissa Arnot
People always ask me what the hardest part of an Everest expedition is.  I only have one Everest expedition behind me, but I suppose that is all it takes to know what is hard and what is not.  Surprisingly, it isn’t summit [...]

Climbers Arrive In Sherpa Capital Namche

Everest Dispatch #3
March 30, 2009
Namche…… 11,296 ft.
N 27° 48.300’ E 086° 42.667’
By Dave Hahn
The rain finished sometime during the night and left partly cloudy skies for our morning walk out of Phak Ding. These improved to sunny, clear and blue skies for a few hours as we wandered the trail through the small [...]

First Ascent Team Starts Trek to Base Camp

Everest Dispatch #2
March 29, 2009
Phak Ding………8,530 ft.
N 27°44.587’ E 086° 42.703’
By Dave Hahn
It was an early morning, hustling out of hotels and bustling onto buses for the short pre-dawn ride to the airport. After a moderate amount of hurry-up-and-wait we hurried out to board a pair of Twin Otters primed for flight. [...]

First Ascent Team Checks in From Kathmandu

Everest Dispatch #1
By Dave Hahn
The climb of Mount Everest has begun.  Our team came together in these past few days, flying by various routes and trajectories around the world to Kathmandu, lugging all manner of electronics, insulation and enthusiasm.  Good meals and nights of uninterrupted slumber have repaired some of the jet-lag grogginess and disorientation.  [...]

Return to Everest Expedition Gets Underway

Last week RMI’s Basecamp Manager Linden Mallory and RMI’s Operations Manager Jeff Martin arrived at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport in preparation for the First Ascent Expedition. This is their report:
After 35 hours of flying we were amazed to see that all 16 of our First Ascent Maximus 150 Duffel Bags survived the airports of Seattle, [...]

Guide Profile: Ed Viesturs

From a boy who grew up on the flatlands of Illinois, Ed has established himself as America’s premier high-altitude mountaineer. He’s the first American and the fifth person to summit all 14 of the world’s 8000-meter peaks—all without the use of supplemental oxygen.  He moved to Seattle in 1977 to study at the University of [...]

Guide Profile: Peter Whittaker

Co-owner of Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI), the largest guide service in the U.S., Peter has been a mountain guide for more than 25 years. Born into what could rightfully be called the First Family of American mountaineering, Peter has more than held his own outfitting and guiding over 70 expeditions on all seven continents. In [...]

Guide Profile: Dave Hahn

Dave’s 10 summits (so far) of Everest are the most of any non-Sherpa in history. A guide with Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. since 1986, he has twice received prestigious awards for rescue work. In 2001, he was named Denali Pro Mountaineer of the Year for his aid on McKinley. That same year, the American Alpine Club [...]

Guide Profile: Melissa Arnot

Melissa already had a career teaching wilderness medicine when she became a professional mountain guide in 2004. Two years later, she was a lead guide. A native of Montana, she’s a skilled rock climber and ice leader. Her passions for climbing, teaching and taking care of others have taken her all over the world helping [...]

Guide Profile: Chad Peele

Chad grew up in North Carolina and lives now in Ridgway, Colorado. He started his guiding career in Alaska in 1996 and continues to guide on remote Alaskan peaks. Although Chad owns his own guide service, Peak Ascents LLC, he works with many reputable guiding outfits throughout the U.S. When at home in Colorado, he [...]